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Whow we are almost finished

Zoom, Zoom, Zoom, Zoom, Zoom, Zoom, Zoom

Parts needed:
1. new clutch lines (perferably stainless steel)
2. new copper washer for power steering line
3. did you need a new axle half shaft
4. plug wires
5. fuel line
6. fuel filter
7. breather filter
8. cold air intake and filter
9. new battery cables
10. radiator fluid overflow resevior relocation kit


Did you remember to clean the engine bay? If not go ahead and do so. After you are finished with the swap it will really make the job more impressive if you see a clean finished product instead of the same old dirt that surrounded your K8.
Ok, with that done you need to put the motor back on the engine hoist. Slowly lower it into the engine bay. Use at least 3 people if you can. One on the hoist lowering it gently and listening to the other two who are on each side making sure that it doesn't bump anything on it's way in. Once you have the motor on the two side mounts then go ahead and put some nuts on them hand tight. Start reconnecting the electrical wires. This is where you will really appreciate the time you spent labeling them earlier. If you didn't you'll end up trying to figure out where some go, but fortunately Mazda made it hard to mess up as most of the connectors will only plug up to one place. You'll have a few that are not connected. Two behind the motor that connected to the EGR and one beside the tranny that connected to a EGR silinoid. If you didn't tap the third coolant temp sensor then it will also be loose on the passanger side of the motor near the upper coolant neck. Don't forget the tiny wire that connects to the power steering pump If any of your connections have broken (on the ZE or the wiring harness you might want to get a new harness or sensor, if they won't snap together then they will probably vibrate loose and then you have to figure out what happened). Don't forget to replace the new battery cables if you got them. With that done move on to the vaccum hoses. These were tricky for me to figure out, but I'll have a pic up soon to use as referecnce. Connect new fuel hoses and new fuel filter. Make sure not to reverse the hoses. Install new plug wires, the cap has the firing order on it and the cylinders are 1-3-5 (top, left to right) 2-4-6 (bottom, left to right). You should have enough plug-wire clips from the K8 and ZE to route them however you want, so get creative and make it look good. Install the breather filter on the intake. The ZEs is on the back side just behind the throttle linkage. The K8s should be where the rubber tube connects the two valve covers and had a third at a "T" that went to the intake tube. Take the one out that went to the intake and replace it with the breather filter. install the throttle cable and adjust untill when the lightest throttle is applied the line moves. This is a tricky part of the swap. If the line it too tight you'll have a high idle because the cable is actually opened alittle. If too loose you have a crappy throttle response. So take some time and get it right. When I push my pedal the slightest it pulls the cable tight without moving the throttle linkage at all (perfect ). Install the new upper and lower radiator hoses. Install the new clutch line (be careful the compression fitting bolts for the line are soft and will strip easily. Use line wrenches if you have them they will help prevent this).

Now go under the motor. Start by installing the clutch linkage (using new bushings from SRD if you got them, NICE) Now the tranny brace. This is where both the front and rear mounts hook to. So this is a tricky process tp get it all to line up. I suggest starting at the front and getting the front mount to line up then run the bolts in just enough to hold it up and then do the back side. After all are in tighten the bolts and nuts on the mounts and brace. Go back up top and tighten the left and right motor mounts. Back ot the under-side. Now for the axles. Start with the half shaft for the passanger side. Grease the bell of the half shaft with new axle grease. Install the new axles. You'll have to twist the hub all the way to the to the front of the car to get the axles in. Wit them in twist the hub straight and then install the new axle nuts. Tighten them to 235 foot pounds. Yes that is alot of torque. Then pinch the nut with a chisle and hammer where you see the break in the hub. I'll try and get a picture to show you what I'm talking about.
Install the power steering lines. Make sure that you replace the copper crush washer with a new one. Install the heater hoses from the fire wall to he back of the head. Install the "Y" pipe that connects the headers. OOoo pretty If you decided to use the K8 headers then you can go ahead and hook the stock "Y" pipe up to the cataletic converter. If you are using headers like I suggested then you'll have to have the car towed to a muffler shop (you'll know why when you crank the car ) to have them install a high flow cataletic converter and connect it to the "Y" pipe. Your done with the bottom of the motor now. Now move back to the top. Install the battery tray and the battery. New belts, tighten properly. Next we will bleed the clutch line and brakes since they share the same fluid resevior as the clutch. The clutch resevior is the back sectioned off portion of the brake fluid resevior. You blled both the same way. It is a two man job. One person behind the wheel pumping the pedal, one person to open and close the vavle of the clutch or brake. If I remember correctly it uses a 8mm wrench. Use a lines wrench if you have one to help prevent stripping the bolt on the valve. We will go through brakes, but the clutch is done the exact same way. The pedal guy pumps the brake a few times untill the pedal gets very stiff. Then he tells hold pressure ont he pedal and tells the valve guy he is ready. The vavle guy releases the vavle about 1/4 turn, just enough to let some fluid come out slowly. Before the pedal hits the floor the vavle guy closes the valve and the pedal guys pumps and then holds pressure again. Go through these steps 3-4 times if just changing brakes. If you have changed lines then you'll need to do it about 10 times. (10 or more times may be needed for the clutch line. If at any time the pedal hits the floor the whole process needs to be started over. Comunication is the key. Take it slow and od it right and you'll have great brake feel. You also have to start over if you let the fluid in the resevior get low. So pay attention and add some if necessary.

Now go ahead install the wheels. Lower the car. (Make sure you car is on a level surface) Next, fill the tranny. Use a brand that has no sulfer in it as it will wear out your synchro rings. You fill it by removing the speedo gear (where you add the fluid) and the "fluid level plug", a bolt just above and alittle to the drivers side of the reverse switch. When the tranny is full the excess fluid will pour out of the "fluid level plug". The tranny holds 5.8 pints of fluid. The "fluid level plug" might be confusing so I'll try and get a pic of it up asap.

Install new intake tube. You will have to make one some way or another. I suggest not turning it down into the hole that is just behind the drivers headlight. I know two guys that ruined their KF-ZE and BPT by sucking up water into the intake through that hole. (they both happened the same week too) Fill the radiator fluid. Squeeze the radiator hose as you get it close to full this should help work out any air bubles. You'll have to crank the car later and remember to check it again as more air bubles will have come out and it will not be full anymore. Hate to ruin all your hard work by not having enough 3 dollar radiator fluid. Powersteering fluid. You'll also need to turn the steering wheel lock to lock a few times after you get the car cranked to work out air bubbles and refill the power steering fluid. Top off brake fluid if necessary. Oil.
Reinstall the remapped K8 ECU or replace with the ZE ECU.
Put a few gallons of premium gas in the tank to thin out any old gas still in the tank.

You may need to relocate the radiator fluid overflow resevior. If so they have a great kit at Auto Zone that you can relocate under the intake filter on the frame rail. I'll try and get a pic of mine for example.
Now unless you are using the K8 headers you'll not be able to hook the exhaust back up, but who cares, it is time to try and fire her up.
If it doesn't crank either I have forgotten something in this guide or you messed something up, or maybe you have a bad part somewhere. Now this is where you can seperate the men from the boys. Troubleshooting a motor is a difcult thing, but you'll get used to it if your not allready
If it did fire up, which it should have, how do you like the sound of an unmuffled ZE??!! It defenately probably the most awesome sound I have ever heard.

Have FUN!!!!

PS, I know it will be super tuff, but you need to take it easy for a at least a hundred miles to make sure that everything is running smoothly. Listen carefully for any noises and address them accourdingly. You'll next need to get used to the "one tire fire".

Note: Now that you have a ZE you need to know one thing. When racing, first gear is no longer to move the car, but only to warm up the tires. hehehe gotta love it. Quafe here we come.
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